The Patchouli: the mysteries of this star of the perfume compositions

Posted in Fragrances

This tropical plant with the intoxicating odor made the glory of the perfumed creations of the Seventies. The scent of the hippie revolution which makes its big come back in Haute parfumerie. Adulated as hated, the essence of Patchouli leaves no one indifferent. These fragrances with their woody and liquorice notes continue to inspire the world’s greatest noses and perfumers. The power of its trail and its persistence in the base note sublimate the perfumed compositions. From ” 1000 ” by Jean Patou, to ” 24 Faubourg de Hermes ” to ” Angel ” by Thierry Mugler, you have smelled Patchouli without really knowing it. Let us leave together under the tropics to the discovery of this noble essence of the perfumery.

To the discovery of the origins of Patchouli

Let us return to the roots of this beautiful tropical plant. Patchouli is a shrub decorated with white flowers coming from Asian lands. It is still cultivated in China, the Philippines, Malaysia and Indonesia. In addition to its seductive scent, the essential oil of Patchouli is known for its beneficial properties. Its extract is said to cure colds, aches and pains and other ailments. It has the reputation of being an aphrodisiac. But, for us perfumers, it is its olfactory molecule of the chypre olfactory family: the Patchoulol that has awakened our adventurous noses.

As early as the 1970s, the hippie movement took over. This naturally extracted essential oil became the embodiment of this revolution. Synonymous with freedom and youth, perfumers explored its dark and deeply sensual notes. Soon, it is seen as a true “all-purpose essence” of Haute Parfumerie. As a base note, it offers a deep weave that combines easily with other scents and awakens the most beautiful fragrances.

From fields to perfume: the extraction and use of the essence

An interesting essence due to its natural extraction process. The leaves of the Patchouli plant are dried before being steam distilled. The aromatic notes of the downy leaves are extracted from the large stills. The vapors obtained are then cooled to recover the hydrolat on which the noble essential oil of Patchouli floats.

From this beautiful essence, perfumers come to play on these woody fragrances. On their perfume organs, they select the top and heart notes of the olfactory pyramid which will be supported by the powerful Patchouli. For oriental fragrances or singular creations, Patchouli is a mythical raw material of the most beautiful compositions.

Patchouli: an extract that has inspired the most beautiful perfumes.

We quoted in introduction some monuments of modern perfumery inspired by Patchouli. Far from “cocooning” in the manner of certain eaux de toilette of yesteryear, the aromatic plant is definitely modern. It is even more popular than you can imagine! Did you know that it is a key ingredient used by Jacques Polge for a great name in perfume? It is the perfume Coco Noir de Chanel. A sensual alliance of bergamot, tonka bean and patchouli. It is also an ingredient used by Serges Lutens.

And on this pantheon of quality perfumers throne AUGET’s beautiful creations. Our Adventurous, Mysterious and Artist candles are three unique and singular ways to develop the notes of Patchouli. So many beautiful ways to explore this beautiful essence! Woodier, more mystical or spicier, which patchouli alliances will you choose for your favorite AUGET candle?

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